Why I Wear Black: A Love Affair with Dark Fashion

Lilla Cabot Perry, "The Black Hat"

Lilla Cabot Perry, “The Black Hat”

Johnny Cash once sang, “I wear the black for the poor and the beaten down, /​Livin’ in the hope­less, hun­gry side of town…” I love Johnny Cash but that’s not why I wear black. I don’t wear black because I’m depressed either. Or to look thin. Or to look mysterious.

I wear black because when I’m wrapped in it, I feel authen­tic. I love its inky mys­tery, its sub­tlety, its rebel­lion con­trasted with its chaste dark­ness, its time­less­ness. When I wear black, I feel ener­gized, per­haps because this non-​colour absorbs all light in the color spec­trum. It’s all there.

In West­ern cul­ture, black has an unde­served bad name as the colour of mourn­ing, melan­choly and evil. But in ancient Egypt, black rep­re­sented life and rebirth in homage to the black soil of the Nile val­ley. In parts of Africa, black is asso­ci­ated with rain clouds, a sym­bol of pros­per­ity and life. The medieval Cathars saw black as a color of per­fec­tion. So did Renoir who said, “I’ve been 40 years dis­cov­er­ing that the queen of all col­ors was black.” Viva le noir.

Georges de Feure, "Woman in a Black Hat"
Georges de Feure, “Woman in a Black Hat”

Oh, I’ve tried to wean myself away from black, mostly under duress. Back in the 80s, when colour pro­fil­ing was in, I was diag­nosed as a “spring” and con­demned to wear vapid pas­tels. I felt like an imposter. I felt like a flower. No won­der I began to sneak black into my wardrobe again. Car­bon. Onyx. Char­coal. Smoke. Ebony. My mother couldn’t believe it. “Black, black, black,” she mourned. “What is it about you and black?”

She tried to recon­vert me. She bought me coloured pat­terns and coloured stripes and lots of clothes in peach, but all I wanted was black (and maybe a lit­tle bit of pur­ple or pink for good mea­sure). I wasn’t mor­bid. I wasn’t a depressed teenager suck­ing the light out of rooms. I just wanted to wear my own colour.

Firstly, black is easy. It goes with any­thing although you have to be care­ful because one black doesn’t always go with another. There are many shades.

Sec­ondly, black is always in fash­ion. Think of Chanel’s Lit­tle Black Dress (LBD), intro­duced in 1926 as the go-​anywhere, do-​anything dress at a time when her arch rival Paul Poiret was tout­ing colour. Ninety years later, the LBD is still a fash­ion must. Inter­est­ingly, Chanel was raised by nuns and it has been spec­u­lated that being sur­rounded by women in black may have influ­enced her designs.

Coco Chanel
Coco Chanel

Thirdly, black is a state­ment about what is essen­tial. It has a purity to it. You can wear it plain or wear it with frills but it never looks frivolous.

The most pop­u­lar and the most con­ve­nient and the most ele­gant of all colours,” said fash­ion designer Chris­t­ian Dior. “And I say colour on pur­pose, because black may be some­times just as strik­ing as a colour. You can wear black at any time. You can wear it at any age. You may wear it for almost any occasion.”

I do plan to keep wear­ing black as I get older, despite warn­ings from styl­is­tas that black is aging. I don’t care. I’m not inter­ested in being one of those women who become more peacock-​like as they age, wear­ing brighter and brighter colours to avoid becom­ing invis­i­ble. I admire women like Geor­gia O’Keefe who donned black because it was sim­ple. As an old woman, she stalked the New Mex­i­can desert like a shadow.

I know, crit­ics of black cloth­ing will talk about hid­den depres­sion, a macabre nature, a dark out­look, but I’m not sure those labels apply to me — at least half of the time. I have to admit to being some­what of a closet goth.

Cignetta Mask by Damina
Cignetta Mask by Damina

But I’m enough of a fash­ion lover to under­stand the value of pair­ing black with chunky sil­ver jew­elry, colour­ful pashimas and vibrant fuch­sia camis. I have no designs on being nunlike.

I do think some black is tacky. Fake leather in black looks, well, fake. Many poly­esters in black look down­right cheap. So I choose my black care­fully, and as I go out into the world in my black boots, black coat and black skirt, I can still hear my mother chid­ing me, “You look like you are going to a funeral.” But, as Baude­laire said, “We are all attend­ing one funeral or another.”

9 Responses to “Why I Wear Black: A Love Affair with Dark Fashion”

  1. Maggie Kerr-Southin Says:

    Black is the color of my true love’s hair
    Her lips are like some roses fair
    She has the sweet­est smile and the gen­tlest hands.
    I love the ground whereon she stands

    My mother had jet black hair as a young woman, and while it became sil­ver over the years, my father fondly called her his Lit­tle Black Crow. She would dress in black vel­vet cock­tail dresses that matched her hair and string milky pearls around her creamy-​skinned throat. She did indeed look like a lit­tle black crow when they stepped out for the night.

    Black is the colour of my father’s love.

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